I would just make a small set of common tools that fit and let any other I have go. Some folks make bushings for their hardy holes. On those the only snug fitting tool was the hardy. Many have 3/4" or 7/8" shanks and have fit loose OR about right in my old 100 pound anvils that I no longer have. I have a collection of several dozen bottom tools and even those that all came from one shop had various sized shanks.ĮXCEPT for the hardy that was made especially for my Hay-Budden (about 1-1/16) they all fit loose or are too big. I could not tell you what size hardy hole either of my anvils have. I am not picky about my hardy hole tooling. On anvils with crooked hardy holes this can mean a tapered shank that fits a little loose. I like those that drop in and pop out smoothly without consideration for alignment. I hate hardy tools that only fit one way. Those that are picky make all their tools from scratch to FIT and they often fit so snug they only fit one way. WE ARE BLACKSMITHS - We should be able to make this fit in less time than it takes to write about it! 005" (normal production tolerances in this size). This means measuring it with dial calipers and/or testing it with a piece of on-size stock.Īs far as I know most 1" shanks on tools are 1" +/. If you are picky and buying tooling you should also KNOW what size your hardy hole actually is. You should buy on-size tools and do the little dressing it takes. What size tools should I purchase for my anvil? However, being a machined hole a piece of standard stock with just a few thousandths ground or sanded off off should drop in.īlacksmith Anvil Hardy (square) Hole Sizesĭue to anvil weights not all being in the same increments and manufacturers not making the same range of product, this survey of sizes and may have some inaccuracies.ĭata compiled for Copyright © 2011 Jock Dempsey I do not believe there is a fit allowance (I currently have neither or I would go measure). The tooling for this is expensive so the manufacturers have "standardized" on 1 inch (25.4 mm). Old factory hardy shanks that I have measured were as-marked with no allowance for fit.Ī number of modern anvils (Peddinghaus, Nimba.) have drilled and broached hardy holes. There are other makes with metric hardy holes. One of the last makers to use progressive hole sizes is Kohlswa who uses metric sizes. Many old anvils had fairly even fractional sized hardy holes (5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1").
All were sold as X size by what they were supposed to be but most seem to have a little oversize for fit. Cast holes are more uniform but cores often have burn-in and end up with ugly obstructions or rough areas protruding into the hole. Many of the punched hardy holes were crooked, diamond shaped, tapered. Until the Modern Era (After Mousehole, Hay-Budden, Fisher Etal) almost every size anvil had a different hardy hole size. The side opening is required so that scale and pieces of steel punched through the hole can fall out. These are punched and chiseled through the top plate and exit out the side of the anvil. The French kept the side exit hardie hole on some style anvils.Ī very small 1/2 - 5/8" (13 to 16 mm) side penetration hardy hole on an Later they were moved to the center line at the heel of English and American anvils and just at the horn on most European anvils. In early anvils the hardie hole was only about 1/2" square and sometimes placed at the side of the face of the anvil with the bottom curving out of the side of the anvil. These include, "bottom sets" with round grooves that match handled "top sets", fullers, forming tools and anything else the blacksmith finds convenient to put a square shank on to be supported on the anvil. Other tools with square shanks are also used in the hardie hole and are sometimes called "hardie tools". The hardy, or hardie, hole is the square hole in the top of a blacksmiths anvil designed to receive tooling such as a hardie.Ī hardie is a short heavy chisel that has a shoulder and a square shank to fit the square hole of the anvil.
0 kommentar(er)
